hottest beauty trends and latest beauty news

	The use of natural colourants in cosmetics and beauty topicals, not only meets a consumer demand, but may also provide additional skin care properties according to recent studies. Many plant pigmentations including anthocyanins and carotenoids have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, which have been scientifically validated. Henna paste, is an extract from Lawsonia Alba, a small shrub with gray to brown bark and is the active colouring agent in henna, found principally in the leaves and has been used for over 3 000 years. Natural henna, and its active component lawsone, do not normally cause reaction. However synthetic dyes added to natural henna, creating a product called Black Henna, have been know to cause reactions in some people. These dyes are added to enrich the colur and shorten application times. The extract of henna has shown to contain antifungal and antibacterial properties. In addition it known to have excellent hair conditioning properties as well as fighting against the onset of androgenic alopecia. Lawsone is itself is colorless. However when exposed to sunlight or to air, it is converted to a new compound that has the characteristic red color, by adding extracts from calendula, chamomile and others, creates alternative red colouration. Sappan Extract, obtained from a small thorny tree about 6-9 metres heigh, the Caesalpinia Sappan, the extract, more commonly known as Brazilien has been used for centuries as a topical treatment for ulcers and open wounds. It has been found to contain antimocrobial and anti-oxidant properties. The extract is either yellow or red, depending on the process used, these bright colours have strong potential as a listick colourant, studies have shown no skin irritation or sensitivity. Pterocarpus Santalinus, better known as the Red Sandalwood, provides another red colour based extract, has played a traditional role in medicine as an astringent and for skin disorders, in India. When combined with turmeric it imparts a healthy glow to the skin and has reported antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It would appear to have ideal properties for facial make-up. (source sabinsa corporation)
	Looking forward to 2009, there is a distinct change of pace. Bright will be the new look for the year. Fashion and style will reflect beauty on a budget, with a strong emphasis on individuality. High impact colours, standing you out from the crowd, bright nails and a continuation of the casual chic of 2008 in hairstyles with an emphasis on the casual updo. As the recession is expected to bite harder, the emphasis is expected to be on the personalised look, away from the expense and with an emphasis on organics, home created and highly personal. In summary 2009 the year of sloppy chic. I know the bold lips are not for everyone, but the effect can be created by trying a contrast between liner and filler, without needing to go neon. 2009, looks set to be a year for creativity, with a focus on beauty with 'green' credentials and no need to spend a fortune to be on trend. Cheaper accessories, bangles and baubles, will tie in perfectly with the on trend look of chic affordability. The sites to shop on, for the new season include Elf cosmetics
Source Yunphoto	Lutein looks set to enter the cosmeceutical market, as Cognis revealed its new Xangold product in New Orleans. In a Journal of Skin Pharmacology and Physiology paper Lutein was credited with increases in photoprotective activity, hydration, elasticity and lipid levels of the skin. The full benefits of Lutein, may well be developed through the cosmeceutical market, a paper published by the University of Naples, in Italy, indicated that Lutein works best when topical and oral applications are combined. For a fuller background on Lutein, see our previous article Lutein as an antioxidant
	Galactoarabinan (GA), a polysaccharide which is commonly extracted from the North American Larch tree, provides many desirable skin care effects. It is an all-natural, water-dispersible polymer which functions as an enhancer for skin care actives and personal care formulations. Much is written in the beauty industry regarding the topical treatment, of equal importance must be the efficacy of the solution into which the formulation is incorporated. Additionally, Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), which is a measurement of the water loss from a body that passes through the skin epidermis through diffusion, which then evaporates into the atmosphere. This measurement is used to define skin barrier characteristics. Reduction of TEWL, indicates that the skin barrier is more effective in retaining moisture in the skin, possibly enabling it to feel more moisturized. Ideally, products that exhibit and maintain skin TEWL reduction over time are most desirable. If the TEWL is high, this means that the skin barrier is less effective in retaining moisture. Galactoarabinan can, when incorporated into personal care formulations enhance TEWL reduction. Galactoarabinan, by itself was shown, under clinical conditions to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, possibly attributed to GA’s film-forming properties. Polysaccharides are also proven to provide anti-oxidative properties to help protect skin against UV-induced oxidative damage. The efficiency of products to deliver the desired results is also determined by droplet size, in essence the smaller the droplet, the more easily the skin can absorb and disperse it, GA as an added ingredient has consistently shown a smaller droplet size for added formulations. Specifically, incorporation of GA into sunscreen compositions has also been shown to enable an SPF enhancement to these formulations. G.M. COLLIN Mineral Sun Veil SPF 15 is one of few products to incorporate Galactoarabinan as a dispersant, which also makes an ideal ingredient in improving the efficacy of sunblock.
	Fighting signs of ageing continues to be an evolving area the beauty industry, a further new product in the market is ChroNOline, a biomemitic tetrapeptide. Unlike many of the other peptides on the market, ChroNOline targets the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ), which maintains skin cohesion and supports skin metabolic needs.Many other peptide based cosmetics products target the collagen layer (subscribe to our newsletter for a perspective on peptides). The DEJ provides structural and functional integrity to the skin. As skin ages, DEJ flattens and becomes linear during, contributing to wrinkle formation. By targeting the production of key components of the DEJ: collagen VII, laminin-5 and fibronectin which form the basis of skin structural support, improvements have been seen in volunteer groups within 28 days. The targeting of the DEJ, is an interesting development from Atrium and we can expect to see this coming to the fore failry soon
	The leaves, roots and bark of the African Birch, Anogeissus leiocarpus, has long been used in traditional treatments. Dakaline, has been developed by Soliance, from bark extracts, to provide three key benefits to ageing skin. It stimulates Vitamin C in fibroplasts, thereby stimulating collagen levels. It helps maintain skin thickness and elasticity by preventing degradation of the extracellular matrix of the dermis. Prevents premature ageing as an antioxidant. During 56 day trials, firmness of the corners of the mouth was increased by 56% and of the temple by 22%. The company is also pursuing a sustainable development policy, in Burkina Faso, working within with strict economical, social and environment guidelines. This cosme'thic approach is becoming increasingly important to consumers. (source: soliance)
	L'oreal are aiming to release a new product for sensitive skin in late 2009 as an addition to the nutri-cosmetics division - Inneov. After seven years of research into developing skin care products containing probiotics, ongoing research is indicating that the use of probiotics have a positive effect on sensitive and reactive skin. In studies a team of volunteers showed marked reduction in sensitivity, assessed through stinging sensations, after an eight week treatment. The inneov range from L'oreal targets the cosmetics nutritional supplements market, it is anticipated the product will be launched by the end of 2009, but an exact date is not yet on the table. The development of nutri-cosmetics is a fast expanding market, with specialist cosmeceutical companies researching and developing new products. An interesting brand in the cosmeceuticals sector is - Borba, who have sought to combine topical and nutritional cosmetics products which work in tandem.
	Autumn 2008 colours 2008, is a year or a more sophisticated look, the bubblegum of 2007, no longer on trend. Hair and face have turned to a more mature, demur look, perhaps befitting of an economic slowdown. A more elegant and reserved presentation has been and will continue to be the on trend style for this year. Hair, whilst remaining casual has moved away from the innocence of last year, as have the make-up colours. The trend for 2008 autumn, is undoubtedly an emphasis on style and sophistication. Deep mauves will be a prominent colour as we head into the cooler months. Mauve lends strength and warmth to the face, dramatically toning with natural pigmentation. Gold, is also a strong focus for the fall season 2008, adding brightness and definition, adding the effect of confidence and solidity. Warm chocolate browns are also to be featured this year, the velvet softness of chocolate creating a warm and gently glowing effect to the face.
	Sugar cane and acne. More specifically, policosanol, which is an extract often sourced from sugar cane wax. Approximately a year ago, Sabinsa, was granted a patent for the process and cosmeceutical application of a solvent free Policosanol, specifically aiming at use in cosmeceutical applications designed to control sebum, inhibit the growth of microbes and promote hydration and softening of the skin. In studies, dating back, to the mid '90's, Picosanol has proven to be effective in maintaining normal Cholesterol levels and influencing cholesterol metabolism. Additional studies about this time also demonstrate ther beneficial effects, which include help in maintaining cardiovascular health. In more recent studies, in 2002 and 2007, Picosanol, has been found to have antimicrobial and sebum control effects that are potentially useful in managing inflammatory skin conditions, particularly acne. Topical application of the Policosanol colloidal solution was found to decrease the sebum secretion in a concentration dependent manner. 2% Policosanol solution reduced the sebum levels by about 11%, while 5% solution reduced sebum secretion by 27%. An unexpected result of the finding, was that Policosanol treatment protected the 1,2- Hexanediol induced dryness of skin and made the skin smooth and soft. Suggested levels of use are 1% to 5% by weight in cosmetic creams, lotions, gels; hair care, lip care and nail care products. Additionally, the moisturizing and skin smoothing benefits of policosanol suggest its potential use as a substitute for lanolin and other animal fats in cosmetic formulations. (source Nutrainingredients) Cosmeceutical skin creams containing Policosanol can be expected to hit the market fairly shortly.
	UVA UVB, SPF, what does it all mean? As we head into the summer, we are constantly bombarded with messages about UVA, SPF etc. but what do they really mean and what difference do those figures make to a beauty product. One factor, which is so often ignored, is incidental exposure, we tend to concentrate instead on actually being in the sun intentionally. Incidental exposure counts for most of our sun exposure. This is just going about in daily life. Everytime we go out, drive the car, go shopping, we are subject to sun exposure, which is why, in the summer, using products with an SPF factor of above 15, is highly recommended. This may be a moisturiser, a hand cream, a neck cream, lip balm or a 'classic' sun tan lotion. There are two types of sun rays we need to be concerned about, UVA and UVB, the third, UVF, are trapped by the Ozone layer and don't reach us. UVA rays, are there all year round and penetrate deep into the skin layers, contribute to burning, premature aging of the skin and some forms of skin cancer. UVB rays, are more intense in summer, at higher altitude and nearer the equator and are the ones which are the major cause of sunburn, skin cancers and premature skin aging. SPF, is an indication of Sun Protection Factor, the ability to protect the skin against redness. The calculation is based on the number of times you are able to stay in the sun, before beginning to burn, compared to not wearing any protection. There is no standard calculation of how long you as an individual can stay in the sun using a particular product, as each of us has a different base line time before we start to burn. The recommended minimum value for SPF protection is 15 with a factor 30 for children. The UVI, Ultra Violet Index, is an indicator of the suns intensity, providing you with a guideline, but agawin not an exact number, as to how long you can safely stay out in the sun. As a base line indicator, on a UVI reading of 5-6, which is a moderate reading, the typical burn time, wearing hat, glasses and SPF protection of 15 is 30 minutes. Remember, sand, snow, concrete, water and many other surfaces reflect the UVA rays. A broad spectrum product is designed to have an effect against both UVA and UVB rays. Photostability, is an indication of the products ability to remain effective over a period of time. Products without phtostabiility require more frequent re-application. Even a product boosted by photostability is going to loose protective power and could be totally ineffective within a matter of 3-4 hours. Lancome Absolue Soleil Absolue Replenishing Sun Protection Body Cream SPF 15 is a great broad spectrum body moisturiser, for daily use.